Bridge building on the cheap!

love it

Thanks Tim & Mike. I was beginning to think (quite rightly) that the weather wasn't going to alter very soon but, a quick glance at today's forecast - dry all day - convinced me to recommense my bridge building. I got everything out of the shed and set things up. Track needed sorting out and the central pier needed to be made.
 
This latter item was soon made from scrap ply and the second truss bridge set up with a temporary concrete (block) pier at the end. I started to sort the track out and it started to rain - not heavy, just wet. This persisted for an hour or more so it was back in the shed with everything. The last thing I need is pneumonia or similar. Anyway took a couple of pics. Will have to try again to get the track and connections sorted if it ever stops raining.
 
One thing that was obvious was the lack of room to put large radius curves in off the bridge. I did move the second bridge a little so the track would have a slight curve in it but I might have to move the fence a little (put it up to stop cows coming in the garden) or slightly shorten the second bridge?
 

 

 

 

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After some pondering, I decided to shorten the second bridge as the easiest option. Drilling out the pop rivets and cutting down (then rivetting up the repositioned parts) took just over an hour. The bridge deck is now 14" shorter - giving 54" overall but the truss portions are now 18" less, given the need to preserve the symetry.
 
It was actually sunny yesterday (in parts anyway), so I set everything up, made a new wooden support pier - ran short of plywood - and set the shortened bridge up.
I managed to fix the track on the first (truss) bridge and made a start on the second.
 
Both bridges will end up with wooden decking (treated) and I will keep them outside to save carting them in and out of the shed. I still need to fit cross bracing but that will be the last job. I was going to finish them today but the weather is rather soft at the moment.
 
The new pier will have a short bridge section cantilevered of of it to joint the proposed new track work. I didn't want a pier too near the edge of the drive because it might get caught when I back the trailer round - hence the original bridge length completely clearing the drive. The other benefit of shortening is that all three bridges are now in line again.
 
Pics and usual caveat about quality (the sun got in the way:rolf....
 

 

 

 
 

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Today hasn't been too bad weather wise so I got on with fixing the track and a bit of decking to the bridges. I've decided that, apart from a couple of cross-braces (still to be cut and rivetted in place), the truss bridges are now complete. I could add more wooden decking but I have to think of my lifting capabilities!
 
I managed to find some pieces of ply and clad the remaining pier and gave it a coat of undercoat last night. The decking was treated yesterday so was also dry enough to use today. The piers need cosmetically enhancing (when I get round to it) but it all fits together OK. Everything just pushes together until the track reaches the end of the bridges where they will connect by dropping into opened-up track connectors.
 

 

 
The bridges now sleep out up against the garden wall - after I shifted a few concrete blocks!

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I weighed the bridges this morning - the 6'9" one weighs in at 6.9kg (a fraction over 1kg per foot) and the shorter one (4'6") = 5kg. That includes the double track too.
 
When not in use they are parked behind the garden wall.
 

 
 
 
 

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This morning, I have been able to initiate a project that has been on my mind for some time. Whilst the bridges are not heavy, there is the tedious task of setting them up to cross the drive. Steve had asked if I had to do this every time and the answer was yes (if I needed to get the car out). Since early January, the bridges have been sitting behind the garden wall until now.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Whilst putting them in place only takes about five minutes (process illustrated below), I long ago determined life woulds be easier if they just swung out of the way. Here is the start of that project
 

 

 

 
A few years back I acquired a number of electric scooters (for salvage) for their motors and other bits. I had intended to build a 5" line but got hooked on 45mm so bits were lying in the shed. The front fork will provide both the pivot and hinge movements of this "swing" bridge arrangement as the drive slopes upwards in the direction the bridges will take. The fork stem, with its bearing, just simply drops into a length of 1.25" iron pipe which has been hammered (3ft) into the ground. More to follow (I hope)

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I like the idea of a swing bridge - but to sacrifice a whole push bike ...................
 
I thought the title was bridge building on the cheap

That is a forkin' good solution Mick.  I think that this project has been beautifully executed and a downright inspiration mate!

Rhinochugger


I like the idea of a swing bridge - but to sacrifice a whole push bike ...................

I thought the title was bridge building on the cheap

 
Tis cheap as chips - all recycled (pun intended) -

beavercreek


That is a forkin' good solution Mick.  I think that this project has been beautifully executed and a downright inspiration mate!

 
Cheers Mike - thought I would complete the exercise this afternoon but didn't reckon on the ESB (Electricity Supply Board) having yet another outage (4 in less than 24hr).
Brassed off!

trammayo




.................Brassed off!

It looked chrome to me

Rhinochugger

trammayo




.................Brassed off!

It looked chrome to me

 
Ah! The beauty of chrome is only skin deep

Managed to weld up the supportin frame before rain slowed things down.
 

 

 
With one end hinged, I needed a wheeled support for the other end. I fitted a rubber-tyred castor and made the leg so it could be hinged up out of the way when the bridge was in situ.
 

 

 
After the rain had temporarily gone, I got the hot air gun out and dried the primed metalwork ready for painting. That was as far as I got yesterday.
 

 

 
Today, after a bit of thought, I decided to add a truss under the frame just in case the deflection under load was too much. I had a spare turnbuckle and used some galv fencing wire.
 

 

 
The assembly, when complete, will just swing clear of the drive parallel to hedge-side tracks (when the latter are constructed). After lunch I intend to fasten the bridges to it and address how the tracks will connect to the arched bridge section. Then the opposite end will need sorting out - all weather permitting of course!
 
 

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A suggestion sir.

While I'm no engineer when it comes to making things to that standard, have you thought about having an open bridge deck?
 
Many protytype bridges only have a solid deck where the go over highways.  An open deck allows rain, hail, sleet, snow and rubbish all to pass through without accumulation.
 

trammayo
 
<snip> and address how the tracks will connect to the arched bridge section.<snip>

That was going to be my question.  How are you going to connect and disconnect the track when the bridge needs to be moved?
 
Excellent job BTW.

Rhinochugger


A suggestion sir.

While I'm no engineer when it comes to making things to that standard, have you thought about having an open bridge deck?

Many protytype bridges only have a solid deck where the go over highways.  An open deck allows rain, hail, sleet, snow and rubbish all to pass through without accumulation.

 
Hi - it is open apart from the board down the middle! Cross members are around 200mm centres - its the camera (said he) that foreshortens the view

Wobbleboxer

trammayo
 
<snip> and address how the tracks will connect to the arched bridge section.<snip>

That was going to be my question.  How are you going to connect and disconnect the track when the bridge needs to be moved?

Excellent job BTW.

 
If I knew the answer to that I'd be in paid employment
 
Actually, the bridge rail end will just drop into channels (crudely created, I might add, from rail joiners - and if I cannot bash fashion four identical pieces, then I have some brass angle.

There are great bridge connections or drop in connections made by Hillman.  I have used them for the bridging unit that goes from top of my pond surrounding wall to the shed spanning the walkway.
 
http://www.gardenrailwayc...Prod&productId=533

Hi Mike, as a tight git Yorkshireman, I'll try and make them - but thanks for the link
 
Anyway, enough of this badinage. I managed to transfer the bridges to the new structure and fastened them in place using self drilling screws - all of 10 minutes in total.
 

 

 
Before going to feed the goats, I managed to lash up some cross bracing from off-cuts and the aftermath of shortening one of the bridges. There are one or two 3.5mm holes but, what the heck, I'm no Thomas Bouch and there will be no egg in these holes.
 

 

 
All that remains are the track connections (at one end) and the curved tracks and connections at the other.

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Looks fantastic