Beginners, I need YOUR help!

As some of you may know, I administer a summat rail related, and general 'rant' board called the-ashpit.com. Since we weren't using near the bandwidth or web storage we were paying for, I also began doing an info site on my garden railroad, various build projects and beginners' tips. see: http://www.the-ashpit.com/mik/layout.html
 
In an effort to bring more new folks into the hobby, I'm considering setting up a new feature for the AV pages in 2012 - dedicated to showcasing the work of beginning large scale railroaders. First layouts, early scratchbuilding efforts, first custom paint jobs, stories of what brought you into the hobby, money saving tips, problem solving, etc. I could host the pictures, text,  etc on the Ashpit domain, and I can do photo and text editing if needed, (or just link to your own webhost, if you prefer!)  but I can't tell your stories....
 
But what I'd like to know is:
1. Is it something you'd find interesting to see?
2. Are any of you courageous enough to share your stuff for online publication?
3. What recurring newbie questions do you find the answers hard to come by?
 
Thanks in advance!

Feel free to raid my blog.....

Mik, I was particularly moved by the Pennsylvania Bituminus Coal photos. I have very vague memories of up state Pa. Part of my family is from Girardville. I visited an abandoned mine when I was 12. Also got to see trains being loaded with coal when I was not much older. If one allows themself to think deeply about some of the pictures, it can be depressing. Things just disappearing into their  surroundings without being noticed or appreciated for what they once were. Just to think of what once was and is no more.

An explanation of how many piston strokes per wheel revolution should be registered on a sound system. 1.2.3.4 and exactly is a Mallett being as sound systems give you it as a choice. I have an S.P.S. Mogul and a Mason Bogie should the stoke sound be the same?
 
Thanks for your help
 
Roger

rpallwood


An explanation of how many piston strokes per wheel revolution should be registered on a sound system. 1.2.3.4 and exactly is a Mallett being as sound systems give you it as a choice. I have an S.P.S. Mogul and a Mason Bogie should the stoke sound be the same?

Thanks for your help

Roger

 
Steam locomotives almost invariably had double acting cylinders, each cylinder giving two exhaust beats per revolution.
A high proportion were two cylinder designs with the cranks set at 90 degrees therefore the locomotive gave four exhaust beats per driving wheel revolution.
Model sound units are sometimes set at two beats per revolution as some owners prefer to hear the individual beats with the loco running relatively fast. Also some sound units are tender mounted and triggered by sensors on the tender wheels so the number of beats per revolution may be adjustable to match the locomotive driving wheel size.
Articulated locomotives are interesting as one power unit may slip and be out of synchronism with the other, causing an irregular exhaust.
Many Mallets are compound locomotives with the exhaust steam from one set of cylinders feeding the other set. A four cylinder compound Mallet would therefore have the same exhaust pattern as a two cylinder simple, but sounding a bit softer and muffled due to to the lower pressure.
Some Mallets (purist may argue not true Mallets as compounding was part of the original patent) are four cylinder simple machines with two independent sets of exhausts which may go in and out of synchronism.
The Garratt is another, usually four cylinder simple, with a reputation for the two power units to synchronise once under way.
Your Mogul and Mason bogie are both two cylinders simples and will therefore have a similar exhaust pattern. The exact sound is dependant on many variables such as valve and blastpipe design, so go for one that you like.

Hi Mik
great idea you have. I certainly come into the BEGINNER zone, in fact no layout at all yet, reading lots of books (as many as I can get my hands on), watching DVD's (when I can find them) and running lots of ideas around in my imagination (no comments please!!!!) Collection of track has well started, and even some loco's.
My proposed plot for my garden system is on a good slope, so the first thing that comes to mind is Rack railway to higher areas.
So if you need any input from here in the UK.......I am up for it.......watch this space come spring time(notice I did not mention which spring !!!!)
All the best
Kev

From comments I have read, I suspect that many people have difficulty understanding LEDs, and how to connect them to typical model railroad power supplies.
 
Its not a simple thing to explain, and I'm about to do some real 'testing' to verify some of the accepted theories.
 
I suspect that the results will be too lengthy for forum comments and require a pdf file that this forum cannot host (so far as I know). Would this be of interest?
 
Don

don9GLC


From comments I have read, I suspect that many people have difficulty understanding LEDs, and how to connect them to typical model railroad power supplies.

A LED lighting mini class would be great!
 

Here's the best I could find - From Greg Elmassian's website:
Driving LEDs
Limit current:
Use a resistor. Calculate the resistor based on the voltage from your common to ground, and subtract the nominal voltage of the LED and use the "remaining" voltage and Ohms law to calculate the current.
You should have the nominal working voltage and the maximum current in hand. If you don't know, then use 3 volts and 20 milliamperes
http://elmassian.com/trai...enu-29/dcc-wiring-tips
------------------------
Ohm's Law, for those who slept through science class
 
The permutation you need to figure the resistor you need is resistance (ohms)= volts/amps.
What I took away from that: Track voltage is usually 18v max. so if we use his 'default' numbers you get R= (18-3)/.020 = 15/,020 = 750 ohm So you need to wire a 750 ohm resistor in series with the LED to keep it from going 'pop' ..... Why didn't he just say so? because he's an engineer!... or maybe just a member of the battery mafia. If you're a battery guy using 14.4v, then you actually need a slightly smaller resistor  (570 ohm, so say 500 unless you plan on running full throttle) And if you're using a 24v power supply and dcc you probably need a 1050 ohm resistor. As far as determining polarity, one way it lights, the other it doesn't.... So if the headlight only comes on in reverse, we switch the wires! (Or if it needs to light regardless of direction, you need a bridge rectifier)
 
Beyond that, I ain't got a clue either...

What I would like to know is if I use a LED on 18v (with correct resistor), would that same LED work on 10 - 12 volt with that resistor?

trammayo

What I would like to know is if I use a LED on 18v (with correct resistor), would that same LED work on 10 - 12 volt with that resistor?

Yes but dimmer, you'd need one of slightly less value to get the same light output as you had on 18v. You are providing less volts so it's dimmer

Heck! That was quick Paul. But then there lies the conundrum. Virtually everything I have is capable of running on the 12v trailer layout, whilst the garden line runs on a higher voltage. I've run the garden line on 12 volts in the past but the sound tenders on Aristo stock doesn't works so well on the lower voltage.

you can use my info

LEDS.    The negative lead has a "flat" on the base rim  of the plastic dome next to it.  Also..most LEDs have the longest lead as POS.  Surface mount jobs are totally different and need looking into the  specifications literature about the particular Led.