BAGRS Basic project engine

Thanks for the info Charles.  A friend of mine had the same issue with his.  Worst case if it happens to mine he will be able to machanine me the new parts.  So far everything appeares to look good.  Guess Ill find out when I run it. 

More progress today. 
I put the pins in the main frame to hold the fuel cup and then I added a rusted metal plate on the bottom to protect the wood and add some detail.


fuel cup and steam lines installed.

I wrapped the boiler and added the wood siding and hooked up the steam lines.

Next I have to add the fuel bunker and then do te roof.  Last step will be stain and test run.

Since my last update I completed the bunker and the roof.  At first I was going to keep it opened like the plans have but after thinking about it I decided a roof would really look good.  Plus the KMRR can see all types of weather.  The guys needed some protection.  The roof is removable that way I can get the boiler out and refuel.  he roof is an actuall metal roof I got from an barn localy. (Same one used on my Class A Climax).
 


Next step is to add some railing to the front and sides.  Then I hope to get it stained and add the details - link and pin couplers, pole pockets, rivets, wood load and a bunch of other tools and junk   Then it will be time to fire it up.

My project engine is almost done.  I got the wood stained using walnut. (its a little darker then  wanted)  I added some details to the inside and out.  I did attempt a test run yesterday but it was 35 degrees and did not run.  A friend of mine has an engine like this that had the same issue.  With some experimenting he was able to improve the performance of the engine by almost 50%. His engine would barley work on flat surface. The trick was to create a gap between the boiler and the outside wrap.  This allows the sterno flame to heat the sides as well as the bottom.  giving it more heat and more steam pressure.  He test ran his on my layout in the same temps and it ran very well (see video in Live steam thread)  I did the same to mine.  A campbells soup can was used for the outside wrap on the boiler.  It is more sturdy and creates the gap needed.  I also secured the boiler to the can so it can be removed as one unit when filling the sterno.  I hope to test run it today and then add wood siding to the outside boiler wrap.
boiler with soup can as wrap.

Top view with brass strips to hold boiler in place.

New boiler wrap and detailes added

Inside

I did a test run on my garage floor (with a slope)  and it ran great.  The gap proved to make a hudge difference.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlLRh8EiI7U&feature=youtu.be
 
Next test on the layout.