A bit more about RJR (newbie)

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RJR
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A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 05/02/10 09:31 PM
Evening all, As well as the out door line I have recently started building what in G scale terms is "micro" layout. In the other scales I dabble in (ON30 and OO) I am a keen module builder and love small detailed layouts, So I am trying to copy that idea with G! Its in 2 halves with an overall of 8' x 20" The G layout now has the dowels fitted and all 3 lines that cross the joint are done, Im waiting for my 2 extra points to arrive at the moment though ! Yes Im a cheapskate, like my outdoor line its all done with Playmobil track, in this case much up it will be buried and the exposed sections will be painted and ballasted.
   



And here they are, stored in the shed, At the moment the On30 turntable module is sat in position on the left hand worktop, it stores on the brackets under the worktop above the G scale module.

 

A view you dont often see, all the inside of my tiny shed ! 

 

The On30 and OO modules are interchangeable with each other, they all connect to the big viaduct to create an end to end layout in OO or On30 from one side of the shed to the other. But enough talk of tiny little scales !


Finally the little loco I have been upgrading from a £15 playmobil ebay puurchase needed to stretch its legs for the first time since its repaint, it still needs name plates and glazing.. 

 



John

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RJR
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 07/02/10 07:17 AM
If you have read the previous post you may have been looking at that awful palymobil plastic track and thought "RJR has lost his mind" Well hopefully stage 1 of the track upgrade should be of interest. I have been experimenting, I started off painting the whole lot with a chocolate brown rattle can. Then attempt 1 I picked out all the rail including their sides with silver (brushed) That looked too silver, took too long and I realised I would end up rusting or darkening the rail sides anyway. So I then tried just painting the rail tops. This looked better but the brown was wrong. Final process sequence. Spray Chocolate. Dry. Brush tops with Humbrol "steel" while still wet wash sides and sleeper tops with slightly diluted "sleeper grime" Its not perfect, will look better when ballasted to hide the moulded ballast, I also plan to add some chairs and fishplates. John
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RJR
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 09/02/10 10:10 PM
Given that I am even too cheap to pay for cheap plastic track the hardstanding area hasnt even got any track !!  

Step 1 Build up the baseboard to the under rail height (1/2" ply) 
 
Step 2 Add some strips of 1/4" ply to create a rail edge  

After checking a wagon rolled well in the newly create "rails" Step 3 A further strip of plywood between the rails, some extra ply outboard of the rails to extend the concrete area, then dark brown paint in the rail groove, and a combination of 3 grey paints for a start of a concrete look.

   
 

At some point the rail top silver paint will be continued along the wooden edge so it doesn't look like the wheels are running on concrete ! 

John
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tac
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 09/02/10 10:45 PM
RJR


Given that I am even too cheap to pay for cheap plastic track the hardstanding area hasnt even got any track !!  

Step 1 Build up the baseboard to the under rail height (1/2" ply) 

Step 2 Add some strips of 1/4" ply to create a rail edge  

After checking a wagon rolled well in the newly create "rails" Step 3 A further strip of plywood between the rails, some extra ply outboard of the rails to extend the concrete area, then dark brown paint in the rail groove, and a combination of 3 grey paints for a start of a concrete look.
At some point the rail top silver paint will be continued along the wooden edge so it doesn't look like the wheels are running on concrete ! 

John




Looking good, John!! Keep us looking!!

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RJR
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 10/02/10 06:23 PM
The two points I ordered arrived today so they have been fitted and painted now. One on the main scenic board taking the total to 3, it makes it easier than keep swapping them around to work on different areas. 



 
Vinyl tape has been applied to simulate the buried rail heads then given a couple of coats of clear lacquer to help seal it down. On the other end of the layout the other new point has been fitted to the forward scenic section and the track painted.   
 
The plan is to fit a backscene in front of the traverser, which will be about 12" high, with just sky on it, in front of the sky a very low relief retaining wall. 
 
To disguise the hole in the sky for the entrance to the traverser an overhead pipe gantry that will have a vertical pie from it down to the floor at the front edge of the retaining wall. John RJR





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adeshers
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 10/02/10 06:43 PM
It's looking more like Manchester city centre by the minute Roll On Floor Laughing Roll On Floor Laughing Roll On Floor Laughing Roll On Floor Laughing Roll On Floor Laughing

But seriously - your ingenuity is very inspiring. Clap Hands Clap Hands Clap Hands

Ade
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Steve
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 10/02/10 06:51 PM
Brilliant RJR , the work you do is always inspiring
Steve

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LTfan
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 10/02/10 07:13 PM
Pure genius - the guy who designed the Playmobil turnouts, with only one moving blade.



Wonder if there's a similar design full-size?

David
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 10/02/10 07:32 PM
I believe, but will stand corrected, that trams use a similar system. I have also just recently been told by an Australian modeler that their local trams use spring loaded blades, just like playmo !
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 10/02/10 07:42 PM
wow---

its interesting to see how a "cheap toy" grows up to something good looking step by step. I like the cover of the rails. looks good.

Frank

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RJR
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 13/02/10 06:35 PM
Today, in between general weekend jobs, and painting the girls bedroom ! I have been putting the backs on the layouts, I have been contemplating these for the last week. What height? What to do at the ends? What to do with the bit that hides the sector plate? In the end I decided to just go for it and stop thinking about it ! The other thing that had stopped me doing the job, was having a period of time that was daylight and dry as the two halves needed to be together to make sure the backs lined up. So here they are, prior to putting the false back in front of the sector plate.
   
Note that there are holes in both the ends that are train sized ! There are 2 reasons for this. 
1) I realized putting a end panel on seriously reduced photo potential !
 2) You just never know when you want to add another section  

Back indoors the above photo potentials ! 
 

I had gone over and over what to do at the end of the line on the scenic board, adding buffers would use important line length, so I have gone for a factory with large doors that will generally be closed but can be open to take photos through.
   
At the other end a couple of things came up !
 
There is another exit on the rear track, this wont be seen as the front track is having an engine shed. The other noticeable thing is highlighted by the red circle. I have shortened the sector plate by about 4 inches and the circle shows the two extra 4" track sections. After some trials I didn't need such a long sector plate. The clearance in front of the dividing back scene would have also been tight, if it had been longer to hide the original length plate. It also gives a bit more track to be in view if you look into the fiddle area. John RJR

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matthew
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 13/02/10 06:45 PM
So simple yet it looks such a great design
 
are you planning on displaying it? Admire
Matt 

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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 13/02/10 08:30 PM
Loving it John
 
just a suggestion
 
how about painting the rail in the concrete section burnt umber for rust,  would give a contrast to the concrete & the rationale is that the concrete keeps more water at rail head level so more rust, Real Big Smile
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 13/02/10 08:38 PM
And thinking about it,  I was even more cheapskate than that
 
the 4 tracks in this display board were not even wide strips of ply
 
they were mostly narrow strips just about rail width about 6mm wide ripped out of a ply sheet with my saw table, still wortks though
 
( for battery locos & static displays)
 
 

 
 
 
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 14/02/10 09:49 AM
Ingenious....
 


RJR
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 18/02/10 10:58 PM
Todays update Points ... The Big hand from the sky was not ideal, so out of interest I checked the amount the blade moved in relation to a OO point motor... and guess what it was the same... Next problem how to convert the linear motion of the motor to the rotary motion of the point control, after some thought I gave up and went for plan B, how to connect the motor to the blade and came up with this... A small hole drilled in the end of the blade an a 90degree bend on the end of a rod. All the original mechanism removed.
  

From above the end of the rod can just be seen. 



Another 90 degree bend at the other end of the rod and a surface mount peco motor base for each one 

 

The rather large original plastic control block could then be cut off the side of the points 

 

in this shot all the lumps have been removed, these areas will be reworked with a sleeper end. 

 

The motor/blade movement

 

The other end got the same treatment, base and rod added, unwanted plastic trimmed off 

 

Wiring for the motors will run above board level in "concrete" ducting/troughs along the track side, and the motors themselves hidden under some control cabinets. John

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Bram
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 18/02/10 11:04 PM
Now that is a very neat idea RJR
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 19/02/10 04:38 PM
Who says you need to spend a lot of money to have a nice RR.  That looks great. 

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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 19/02/10 05:33 PM
Mate that railway is coming really well. I think that changes to the track and points have made a massive difference and had you not said what sort of track you had used i would of been hard pushed to name it.
 
Look forward to seeing some senic items being added to start bringing it to life as they say.
 
Jason.
 

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RJR
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 19/02/10 10:08 PM
Thanks for the encouragement !

Tonight I have gone cross eyed sticking bits of matchstick on to give a feel of chairs along the track, I cant do inside the rail as it will foul the flanges, and once they are all painted they will probably disappear anyway, but it may break up the smooth line down the sides?? Missing guard rail on each point set added too ! I have also started to build out to the point motors, that as suggested will be cunningly disguised as point motors ! I have been wondering about using the upstanding point motor rod for a ground signal, but it may just get clipped and some checker plate over the top of each, time will tell  

Finescale its not but I think it is starting to loose its toy look now?? John


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JonathanJ
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 20/02/10 05:50 PM
This looking really nice - definitely shows what you do with cheap track and some thought..

Out of interest, what radii are the playmobile curves/points?  They look tighter than R1, and I'm guessing that only shortwheelbase 4 wheel (or bogie) stock can really cope.

Jonathan

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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 20/02/10 11:45 PM
Thanks for the comments, I appreciate you taking the time to look.

Jonathan, Ive never actually measured the radius but from a quick google a couple of sites say they are 18" rads, I will check.

Todays Update

Having spent hours sticking the chairs on, it was a bit gutting to blend them all in, but the idea is they are there if you notice them, not in your face?! I have also added in the start of a partial roadway along the front (An old cork notice board) that I hope when painted will look something like tarmac.

John 



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RJR
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 21/02/10 03:47 PM
With unexpected time in the shed today, due to snow ! Attention has turned to the points.. As originally I hadn't planned to have any electrickary involved, the twin skin baseboard construction seemed a good idea. Now faced with fitting wires I had a decision. Option 1 was to run the wires above ground level in ducting, but this still meant going under tracks a couple of times. Option 2 feed the wires between the plywood faces. I decided in the end on option 2 which turned out pretty easy. 1st job was to drill some 2.5" access holes under where the point motors fit. 
 

Then with some small holes drilled through the top skin wires were "weaved" in 

 

With after thought I may have been able to mount the motors in this cavity but I think they are going to look okay above ground.?!?! The one motor I have in stock has now been wired in the most awkward position of them all and tested with a 12v supply, it works fine. The next step was some disguise, the plan is to disguise as a point motor ! albeit perhaps oversize. The results so far 



A lot of the bottom will be lost under ballast. I need to pick up 3 more motors (hopefully tomorrow) these should go in pretty easy now the wire is in place for them. John

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RJR
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 21/02/10 08:31 PM
Tonight I have started some scenery, Nothing major, but it is a start. At the bottom end I have cut out the basics of a factory front, which tidies up the two holes through the back scene. It has a faint vertical rib in it but that cant be seen while it is white. I have also made the two doors and covered them with vinyl to get a chevron bumble bee effect. The doors will be fixed in grooves so they can be raised or lowered, mainly to take pictures back into the layout, at the moment they are just propped in. 
 

At the other end a curved kerb has been put around the road at the front, and along the back the floor level has been raised to level it off at the factory end.

   

John

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RJR
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 22/02/10 10:21 PM
Tonight I came home with a bag of ballast, some balsa wood and a pair of point motors ! So after lots of visualizing what the track would look like ballast I finally got to see it ... First job was to wire in and test the 2 point motors, then add some cable ducting from the motors that will later have covers in most places, a couple broken and a couple missing to reveal some dummy wires

I haven't added any PVA / Water as the forecast for tonight is very cold and I don't want it to freeze before it sets !! John
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C&S
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 23/02/10 02:04 PM
Someone's got to ask this, so it might as well be me............what ballast are you using? The size looks just right and it seems to be odd-sized rough chunks, too.
 
Like the vans, as well; they're nice space-savers and look Glyn Valley-ish.  Home made, or kits?
 
Look forward to seeing this one develop further.

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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 23/02/10 02:15 PM
C&S


Someone's got to ask this, so it might as well be me............what ballast are you using? The size looks just right and it seems to be odd-sized rough chunks, too.
 
Like the vans, as well; they're nice space-savers and look Glyn Valley-ish.  Home made, or kits?
 
Look forward to seeing this one develop further.



Believe it or not the ballast is classed as fine ! Made by Jarvis (product ref JFGST) and designed for OO !!!

The vans are home made plasticard bodies mounted on one double axle LGB bogie so I can make two vans for the price of 2 sheets of plasticard and one pair of bogies.

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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 23/02/10 10:01 PM
Before going to work this morning I applied PVA/Water to the ballast, the plan being it would be warmer during the day than night. The plan worked ! Then this evening I built the start of the platform area and added the ballast between it and the rear track. Also some stone on the front curved wall. Finally it has had a light spray with dirt brown.

John
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C&S
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 24/02/10 11:36 AM
RJR
Believe it or not the ballast is designed for OO !!! Made by Jarvis (product ref JFGST) 
The vans are home made plasticard bodies mounted on one double axle LGB bogie so I can make two vans for the price of 2 sheets of plasticard and one pair of bogies.
John 

OO ballast - oh dear, that would probably mean about two bucketfulls of small bags at a couple of ££ a go!   Thanks for the van building details - I like your style!
<message edited by C&S on 24/02/10 03:15 PM>

3Valve
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 24/02/10 01:44 PM
What a stunning micro layout John.
 
The playmo track looks fantastic and cheap as chips too.  Thumbs Up

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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 24/02/10 09:49 PM
Not had much time tonight. So I set myself a small task, lids and cables on the ducting..

John
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 24/02/10 10:21 PM
Your doing a fantastic job there John, that track looks superb with the ballast.
The ducting looks so real too.
Please keep posting you pic's.
 
Regards
 
Bruce.

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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 24/02/10 10:28 PM
I can see the price of Playmobile track going up as everyone tries to copy your brilliant ideas! Well done.
Regards
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 25/02/10 09:36 AM
u r 1 clever sausage. wowee that's amazing!

adeshers
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 25/02/10 12:44 PM
That lineside troughing looks too much like the real thing - watch out for those cable thieves.
Ade - Chief Cook & Bottle Washer of the Combs Valley & Blackbrook Light Railway


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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 25/02/10 04:59 PM
Thanks for the note on track radius.  As an aside, I wonder if you could combine the playmobile track with the train-li plastic rails that have been mentioned elsewhere to get more choice in layout..  Obviously the train-li stuff wouldn't match the palymobile connectors, but if you're nailing up down, that should be a big issue.

This layout is looking better and better, really shows how some thought can give a real railway like atmosphere - the track section, point motors etc are probably quite a bit overscale, but together with all the other detailing, they LOOK right.

J.

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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 25/02/10 05:08 PM
My first rule "If it looks right it is right !"

[font="verdana, arial; line-height: normal; white-space: pre-wrap; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 1px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 1px; "]Home early today for child minding duties and have take delivery of some 3' x 2' flagstones


Now obviously B&Q dont sell scale flagstones, but they do sell sticky back vinyl tiles in stone colour ...

10 minutes of scoring and snapping and .. instant self adhesive flagstones.
I also have a new helper, found in a kit of Tamiya Mechanics I forgot I had...

He is a bit rude he keeps pointing but Im sure he will point out most new additions in future weeks. 
"look new flags"

"look a point motor"


[font="verdana, arial; line-height: normal; white-space: pre-wrap; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 1px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 1px; "]
told you he points a lot !!!



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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 25/02/10 05:40 PM
Keep up the good work. A wealth of really useful information great photos and just love the trackside conduit/trunking.
 
Thank you for sharing Clive

RJR
  • Total Posts : 147
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  • Location: Oldham UK
Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 27/02/10 10:41 PM
Last night I started work on the station building and I got to spend all afternoon in the shed today As a result the station has progressed nicely. The factory at the end of the line has had the door runners fitted, so the big doors can be up or down. It has also had a colour wash and weather. The concrete has had some colour patches to make it look like it has been repaired. The concrete apron has been extended to the front of the baseboard. The doors Open

Closed

How

The Station

John
 Railway blogging @ http:\\www.rjrmodels.blogspot.com
 Blogging about life @ http:\\rjrdaydreamer.blogspot.com          



RJR
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Re:A bit more about RJR (newbie) - 02/03/10 07:01 AM
THE ROOF Having decided what it was to look like the problem was how to achieve it, so some rather extensive plasticard construction was needed. Step 1 was to cut and stick a series of identical "roof trusses" to the top of the existing wall, basically triangles with a 12mm tab hanging down at the back, this tab is stuck to the inside face of the wall so the truss sits in the right position front to back. The trusses were then supported by a vertical plasticard strip running along the ridge of the roof, and spaced at the front by what will be the valance. 


As the ridge is now 12mm back from the front wall the brick work was continued up between the trusses.

   

The ridge doesnt run along the back scene or even square to it for that matter, so the next step was to put a few trusses on the back half of the roof and a flat top on to simulate the rear section of roof. The roof is not a regular apex as the front angle is steeper than the rear (if you could see it all) to accommodate that the building has more depth than the canopy, again if the back scene didn't chop it off  
 

The underside of the trusses also had a strip / flange added under each to add a bit of detail and make them look a bit stronger. 


Finally the trusses that will be hard to get to once the roof material is applied have been given a couple of coats of paint. 

 


The painting also served as brain relaxation after overworking it in the construction phase ! John

<message edited by RJR on 02/03/10 07:03 AM>
 Railway blogging @ http:\\www.rjrmodels.blogspot.com
 Blogging about life @ http:\\rjrdaydreamer.blogspot.com          



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