ML 4000 Kit in DRGW the build process

Hello all.
 
Firstly let me pay tribute to one of our fellow members for making this kit it is superb quality so even I can make it look easy. For more information on this kit please see this thread: http://www.gscalecentral.co.uk/f/m5148.aspx
I believe Rob is considering another run if there is enough interest.
 
Any way on to the build and how I'm getting on.
 
As you may have noticed fom the above thread the body is mostly built, as are the bogie sideframes, all we need to supply is the chassis and motorblocks. After some help form other members of the forum the PIKO 0-6-0 tank engine motor block seemed a reasonable fit and was cheap enough to buy two without getting me in any more trouble.
 
Once the motor blocks arrived I had to figure out a way of mounting the side frames, the side frames are cast white metal and weigh a lot so what ever method I was to use had to be pretty robust. The motor block is a slightly unusal shape and is quite deep, so I decided to make a frame out of brass angle from B&Q to hold the two side frames together which would the rest on the motor block.
 
Here's a pic to help understand my waffle:

 
Joints of the frame are held with size 6BA nuts and bolts, and then the white metal sideframs are attcahed to these using selftapping screws, and epoxy adhesive, They are that heavy I wanted to be sure they did not go any where.
The other brass parts that you can see on the white metal such as the brake cylinder are stuck on with epoxy.

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The next puzzle is to figure out how to mount the motor block onto the chassis, for this I cheated (used my initiative) I had some spare parts left over from a previous LCE build including some cradles designed for holding motors, so with some modifications this is how I'm going to attach the bogies.
 

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The next three pics show how the fram sits quite nicely onto the motorblock.

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Ok so the bogies are getting there, but ML4000 do not have spoked wheels, or red bogies so further modificatoins are needed. I cut small disks out of plasticard using a circle utting drill attachment, stuck these on to the wheels with epoxy, then gave the whole thig a lick of paint.
 

 
As a footnote, it appears gscalebits.co.uk have these power blocks in black now and would save you the trouble of painting them.

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All that is needed is to paint the side frames. If your making one of these, remember white metal and brass will need to to be primed with an etch primer I brought mine from halfords and it worked a treat. 
 

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Ok the bogies compete its time to move onto the body.
 
Rob has made the body to the SP specification, and if you want to have an SP model all you'll have to do is stick on the brass detail parts. Being me I decided I wanted to modify it to look more like the DRGW version. Rob does supply the DRGW headlight in the kit, and also a guide on other mods that may be needed.
 
The first job was to remove the standard SP headlight, as the body is cast resin this was fairly easy just to cut off and sand back to shape.
 

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Next the other two headlights had to be removed, this was a little more difficult as the lower one has to remain intact. I managed to remove both lights unfortunately I did make a bit of a pigs ear of the front and had to get the body filler out. ( remember if your doing SP version you don't have to do any of this mess).
 
pic of the front with all lights removed and the scars of body filler.
 

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Oh by the way all the small holes you can see on the front and on the rest of the loco have to be drilled and are for hand rails, or detail parts to  be added later.
 
The lower headlight gets relocated up a bit from its original location, also in this pic you can see that I have added a few of the detail parts (multiple unit sockets) that Rob supplies, Also you may notice that I have added two white pieces with holes in on the sole bar. These are not supplied and this is a modification I took upon myself to do, so I can add some multiple working pipes later.
 

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This next picture shows the front with its DRGW headlight fitted, you can also see the brass horns (supplied) mounted on the roof.
 
 

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This side picture shows another modification that was needed for the DRGW version that would not be needed for the SP type. On the DRGW version there is a big long step along one side of the nose, I made this with a little styrene angle, to get the checkerboard effect I stuck a little aluminium mesh onto it, (the sort you buy for car body repairs).
 

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There are some modifications to the vents that should be done for it to be truly DRGW but I decieded to leave all the vents alone and just finish sticking all the other external brass detail parts on. Rob supplies many detail parts including steps for SP and DRGW versions, and even brass fuel filler caps, aslo the fiddley part was the tiny lifting hooks in brass that needed to be stuck which are hardly noticeable in these photos.
 

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Whilst the glue dries I decided to put the controls together, again great detail and lots of small fiddley little bits to add.
 

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Well folks thats nearly as far as I've got so far, I have undercoated the body and given it its first coat of primer for the main yellow colour. The colour was Vauxhall mustard yellow, over  a white primer.
 
I won't be able to update this thread for a week or so as I'm off on holidays tomorrow, I'm not allowed to take the kit with me to finish. I will still be able to catch up online via mobile though so If you've any questios or comments please feel free to post them.
 

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It really looks a quality kit - nothing flimsy about it - really substantial. You obviously know what you are doing - both the subject matter and modelling abilities - this is another thread to keep my eyes on!
Awaiting more postings! Well done Dave.

Mick

A Grande start Dave Does look very VERY NICE Looks like you got the yellow paint spot on and the motor blocks and side frames look fantastic can't wait to see it finished

Thanks for the comments,
 
Mick I can't take all the credit on knowing the subject, Rob has been a fountain of knowledge on the DRGW version. I have sent him many emails asking about details, and he has patiently explained them all.
 
Richie, thanks for the comment, give it a few weeks and she'll be ready for a test run.
 
 
As the other half went out to the shops I thought I'd get one last bit done before the holiday.
 

Rob supplies brass etched fans and grills, after trimming these and painting them it was time to install them onto the model.
 

 
Got to give Rob credit, these fans look very good when painted and fitted, of course the kits only as good as the builder! (not that I'm modest).

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Very impressive, looking at the side frames you won't have to add any weight to the loco.
Well, maybe a little.

I think he has done a great job of building this kit, it looks nice with all those fans and grills fitted in. As for weight, just the body casting alone weighs more than a complete USA trains F unit or GP9, that is before you add the sideframes, brass detail castings, power bogies and chassis!!! 
Cheers
Rob 

Looking good. Wish I'd had the cash to get one, but buying stuff for my Buick right now.