Dismantling an early Stainz...?

I thought it would be clearer to start a new thread for this question, though it refers to the loco I posted about last week - the old 2010 brown-cab No.1 Stainz that I acquired through evilBay.

I've never had to take an old split-gearbox Stainz apart before, so before I start on the chipping project (with a Massoth LS sound decoder which I bought from Glendale's stand at Dereham yesterday), can anybody direct me to any good online notes (preferably with lots of pics!) for taking this little fella to bits, and then hopefully putting it back together again?

As a supplementary question, where is the best place to put a speaker in a Stainz? Under the cab roof, like the newer sound-equipped ones, or somewhere else? I'm probably going to use a Massoth 40mm speaker, the one with the square fixing plate. I had wondered about doing what I'd done for an old U-class installation with the same size speaker, which is mounting it on the cab floor facing downwards, with several sound holes drilled through the plastic directly beneath it - or does anyone have any better suggestions?

Thanks in advance as always,

Jon.

Once I've separated the motor block from the rest of the loco, in order to open the block up and access the motor I know I need to remove all the motion and the wheels on one side so that I can split the gearbox down the middle - now, is there any reason why it's better to remove one side rather than the other? The reason I ask is that the only other split gearbox I've had apart was an elderly U class with the complete split chassis, and in the case of that loco it was better to remove the left half (I think?) than the right, because the motor and its thrust ballbearings sat in pockets in the right half, so by laying it on its right side and lifting the left half away, everything would stay in place - do it the other way and everything falls out! Is the Stainz split gearbox similar, or are the two halves entirely symmetrical?

Thanks,

Jon.

Jon:
 
My experience with the splits is that they are symetrical, but you want to remove the wheels from the side that exposes the screw heads that hold the case together.

LVT


Jon:
 
My experience with the splits is that they are symetrical, but you want to remove the wheels from the side that exposes the screw heads that hold the case together.

Thanks Arthur - that makes sense, but which side IS that on a Stainz gearbox?! 

Jon.

Steve's sent me the diagrams (thanks Steve!), but they still don't seem to show any screws that hold the halves of the motor/gearbox block together.

So, is there anyone here who has actually taken a 2010 apart and can remember which side the screws are on, please...?

Jon.

Rebuilt a 2020 just last week, but I cannot remember, but remove a wheel from each side (be sure to catch the spring and brush that will pop out) and you can see which side is which.  The bolts on the siderods are 6mm BTW.  One can get a 6mm nut driver from any hobby shop that does RC cars or aircraft.

Also, unless the motor has been replaced, there will be a small bearing at the end of each gear, do not loose these.

Just a small tip, get a clear large polythene bag, then dismantle the loco within the bag.Saves loss of springs and balls.  Alyn

themole


Just a small tip, get a clear large polythene bag, then dismantle the loco within the bag.Saves loss of springs and balls.  Alyn

Good idea, Alyn, it's bad enough losing your springs, but the idea of losing your......   

Zerogee

themole


Just a small tip, get a clear large polythene bag, then dismantle the loco within the bag.Saves loss of springs and balls.  Alyn

Good idea, Alyn, it's bad enough losing your springs, but the idea of losing your......    rolf:

 
At least they will still be in a bag

Thanks Mike, those pics are very useful! 

Jon.