Stone Arch Bridge

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (gregh)

Thu, 11 Mar 2010 04:48:00 GMT

Jerry Barnes

WISH they had that product in the USA, but I have not heard or seen of it except from you folk over the pond east and west.

It is manufactured in Texas and Georgia. see these websites to start ....
http://www.toolbase.org/Technology-Inventory/Foundations/autoclaved-aerated-concrete
http://www.aacpa.org/directory/index.htm

BUt no mention of retailers in Nebraska!

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (Jerry Barnes)

Thu, 11 Mar 2010 02:29:25 GMT

WISH they had that product in the USA, but I have not heard or seen of it except from you folk over the pond east and west.

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (adeshers)

Wed, 10 Mar 2010 23:15:42 GMT

gregh

BTW, it seems that your thermalite blocks have great gouged straight lines 'diagonally' across them (no not your stone carving!). Is that how they are made?

The diagonal lines are indeed part of the manufacturing process. I think they give the finished face a certain texture which could be utilised if you were trying to create a Welsh / Slate feel. possibly?
The carved stonework seems to take the eye away from them 'in the flesh' and I prefer to 'show' that face rather than the 'cut' face (if you know what I mean).

I forgot to mention that once I had chiselled out the sections on the parapet I used a 'mouse' type sander to roughly flatten the surface that became the new trackbed - it took about 5 minutes!)

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (adeshers)

Wed, 10 Mar 2010 23:05:00 GMT

trammayo

Like it Ade - gives a new slant on joinery tools! I googled Celcon and came up with B&Q but their Irish web site takes you straight to the UK one. However, Quinn (who make cement, glass, insulation, roof tiles (i got some shipped when I took my roof off), have health insurance - took over from BUPA over here - and car insurance) also make their own blocks called Quinlite. So its just a matter of finding some!
Mick

Keep trying Mick - they're a doddle to work with. The more I ~~play~~ work with them the more I like them. They cut easier than wood and the best bit is that it's all so quick.

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (gregh)

Wed, 10 Mar 2010 21:45:07 GMT

adeshers

I decided to add a parapet.

Looks great. It's not till you've added it that you realise that it was crying out for the addition to finish it off.

BTW, it seems that your thermalite blocks have great gouged straight lines 'diagonally' across them (no not your stone carving!). Is that how they are made?

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (trammayo)

Wed, 10 Mar 2010 17:34:01 GMT

Like it Ade - gives a new slant on joinery tools! I googled Celcon and came up with B&Q but their Irish web site takes you straight to the UK one. However, Quinn (who make cement, glass, insulation, roof tiles (i got some shipped when I took my roof off), have health insurance - took over from BUPA over here - and car insurance) also make their own blocks called Quinlite. So its just a matter of finding some!
Mick

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (adeshers)

Wed, 10 Mar 2010 17:13:17 GMT

I decided to add a parapet. I hope the photos are self explanatory.

[attachment=0]
[attachment=1]
[attachment=2]
[attachment=3]

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (gregh)

Mon, 08 Mar 2010 04:42:34 GMT

steinman

My bridge used four bricks and cost under a tenner in total, its been out for a couple of winters now and seem OK,

[attachment=0]

That's a really nice bridge. Set off by the plastic grass too. Does that stuff last outdoors OK?

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (trammayo)

Sun, 07 Mar 2010 09:15:13 GMT

gregh

the eels

Oh, and in the UK building regs require that they are only used above DPC level, put in the ground unprotected they can split when soaked up water freezes.

Just for the fun of it I soaked a couple of pieces of Hebel (=Thermalite?) in water for 3 hours then put them in the freezer overnight. No effect.

Hi, what worried me was spalling - the blocks will soak up water and when it freezes the water expands (at the very least pushing off a thin layer which has been painted). This has happened on my rendering. I tried diluted PVA but after this winter I have ended up with large areas of paintwork flaking off - complete with a micro thin layer of render! For modelling, paint is not the answer if you have an exposed location. I haven't given up on the idea though and will attempt to google to find someone who sells them (maybe B&Q?) I'm off to Galway next month for a check-up so you never know.
May I also say that I am very impressed with everybody's modelling in this medium.
Mick

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (steinman)

Sun, 07 Mar 2010 08:22:41 GMT

My bridge used four bricks and cost under a tenner in total, its been out for a couple of winters now and seem OK,

[attachment=0]

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (gregh)

Sun, 07 Mar 2010 03:41:00 GMT

adeshers

Greg, the blocks come that grey colour . I was wondering how to change it. I read on your site that you use concrete colouring powder. I'll have to look out for some.

Funny - our Hebel is white, weathers to light grey and sometimes has a pinkish tinge when wet.

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (gregh)

Sun, 07 Mar 2010 03:37:54 GMT

the eels

Oh, and in the UK building regs require that they are only used above DPC level, put in the ground unprotected they can split when soaked up water freezes.

Just for the fun of it I soaked a couple of pieces of Hebel (=Thermalite?) in water for 3 hours then put them in the freezer overnight. No effect.
[attachment=1]
We're not using them for load bearing buildings, so I doubt there is a problem.
But Hebel does crack - it's not the strongest stuff in the world - that's why we can carve it etc.
Here's a crack in my big viaduct. Appeared after the 2nd summer and has been there for 8 years now and it hasn't collapsed. I suspect cause was poor foundations - after all real masonary viaduct have to be in compression at all times or they fall down.
[attachment=0]

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (trammayo)

Sat, 06 Mar 2010 11:43:24 GMT

adeshers

trammayo

It looks very effective indeed. If I knew where I could get some, I would have a go myself. Not sure how it would stand up to our weather though.

Mick

I've seen them in Wickes if there's one near you Mick (I think they've got outlets in Ireland) but I got mine from a local builders merchant .

Hi Ade, here in Mayo (apart from Builder's Merchants not selling blocks - you buy direct) everything is concrete - a 4" (nominal 18 x 9) weighs in at 20kg! The weather here means we only get 4 years out of Dulux Masonry paint and its played havoc with rendering. I mixed some plastiiciser with the render (or plaster as they call it here) and this has the effect of aerating the mortar in a similar way to the Celcon blocks. This has suffered badly in the - 14 degrees this winter. Good job its only a garden wall.! Thats why I was wondering about the effects of the weather. I have seen the other threads and sites and I really like what has been done and would like to have a go.

Mick

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (stockers)

Sat, 06 Mar 2010 11:37:19 GMT

Brilliant - love it.
As for water - I use Thompsons brick waterproofer - had no trouble with frost in 3 years.
[attachment=0]

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (dunnyrail)

Sat, 06 Mar 2010 11:31:53 GMT

Nice job.

We have 3 viaducts on the Ruschbahn, all made from Celcons (or whatever your type of Soft Building Block is called). All have been outside for around 4 years now with no damage due to frost. Secret is to paint them with PVA 50/50 mix with water and a drop of washing up liquid. Next for cutting, I used a Jigsaw, blades do not last forever but it is SO much quicker than drilling loads of holes that need to be tidied up. You can shape the stuff with a Surform or indeed use WOOD files as well.

As always do not use you best tools if going into this type of tool abuse. Oh can I be arrested for that?

Re the question of Colour, Wicks sell Cement Colouring Powders. Your local friendly Building Supply Merchant (not the likes of B+Q or Homebase) will also probably sell cement colour powders. Also do not forget Sulphate of Iron used for feeding azelias (Garden Centre of most DIY Garden sections), this stuff has a warning that it will discolour paths if you use it near them. Just sprinkle the stuff on and water (with a misting spray). Turns Green then Rusty Brown. The more you use, the darker the Brown. Suggest that you experiment with it to get the feel, possibly on the underside of an old paving flag. I use it to add a bit of colour my Concrete Mountains, also works well on LGB Track.
JonD

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (Bram)

Sat, 06 Mar 2010 11:17:54 GMT

Greg's www site has some top notch topics on it

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (Bram)

Sat, 06 Mar 2010 11:14:00 GMT

That looks the business Ade, well done, and those blocks weather down nicely as well

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (adeshers)

Sat, 06 Mar 2010 11:07:56 GMT

gregh

Great work - looks fantastic and so realistic. Did you colour it or that the natural grey?
Exactly the method I used to make my viaduct. You could possibly cut without drilling, but sharp curves like this are difficult.
Keep spreading the word about this stuff. I reckon it's the greatest GR material ever.

Greg, the blocks come that grey colour . I was wondering how to change it. I read on your site that you use concrete colouring powder. I'll have to look out for some.

To anybody else reading this, look at Gregs website for lots and lots (and I mean LOTS) if inspiration.

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (gregh)

Sat, 06 Mar 2010 01:33:20 GMT

Great work - looks fantastic and so realistic. Did you colour it or that the natural grey?
Exactly the method I used to make my viaduct. You could possibly cut without drilling, but sharp curves like this are difficult.
Keep spreading the word about this stuff. I reckon it's the greatest GR material ever.

As for all the comments about using outside - I hope you update us after your first freeze. I don't have that problem here in Sydney.

Don't forget it's good for buildings, retaining walls and platforms too. Here's one I prepared earlier....
[attachment=0]

Re:Stone Arch Bridge (owlpool)

Sat, 06 Mar 2010 01:02:09 GMT

looks really effective